JOURNAL
Pitti Uomo 105 Trend report
Words & photography: Lee Osborne @sartorialee
The theme of the 105th edition of Pitti Uomo was ‘Pitti Time’ with animated ticking clocks greeting the arrival of guests at the hallowed facade of the Fortezza da Basso in Florence. If anything it was a timely reminder that despite the fast-paced nature of life, style is one thing that remains timeless - and there was plenty in evidence being paraded around the Pitti piazza and filtering into the historic backstreets of the Renaissance city. Here’s what we took away from a show that, whether you concur or not, one notable onlooker described as evolving into the ‘Coachella of menswear’.
Trends
Looser fitting tailoring
There was a welcome return to more classic silhouettes in suiting - one can only hope the slim-fitting trends of recent years have finally been consigned to Room 101.
Navajo patterns
The native South American geometric pattern proliferated the show, whether it took the form of eye-popping accessories or full-on statement coats. One thing’s for sure it takes strength of character to pull off the latter. If you’re less daring, a Navajo scarf, as worn by Justo José Gimeno Arribas and his compatriots from Justo Gimeno in Spain, adds a rather stylish pop of colour to a Barbour jacket.
Looser fitting tailoring
There was a welcome return to more classic silhouettes in suiting - one can only hope the slim-fitting trends of recent years have finally been consigned to Room 101.
Navajo patterns
The native South American geometric pattern proliferated the show, whether it took the form of eye-popping accessories or full-on statement coats. One thing’s for sure it takes strength of character to pull off the latter. If you’re less daring, a Navajo scarf, as worn by Justo José Gimeno Arribas and his compatriots from Justo Gimeno in Spain, adds a rather stylish pop of colour to a Barbour jacket.
Patchwork
Dare we say it, we even spied colourful western-style patchwork cardigans worn over tailoring - a braver step up from the more sedate monotoned chunky shawl collar. Or a step too far for the sartorial purist? We were particularly drawn to a rather magnificent patchwork- embellished trench coat from Grenfell.
Voluminous overcoats
Fabulous overcoats reigned supreme with herringbone particularly noteworthy - none quite as impressive as the brown and black bespoke top coat Fred Nieddu of Taillour crafted for Robb Report editor-in-chief Paul Croughton. One thing’s for sure it had us all purring (and pining) to have one made up to cloke ourselves within for next year’s winter edition. Camel coats and cardigans made a welcome reappearance too. The trend even seemed to re-energise stalwart street snapper Scott Schuman.
Dare we say it, we even spied colourful western-style patchwork cardigans worn over tailoring - a braver step up from the more sedate monotoned chunky shawl collar. Or a step too far for the sartorial purist? We were particularly drawn to a rather magnificent patchwork- embellished trench coat from Grenfell.
Voluminous overcoats
Fabulous overcoats reigned supreme with herringbone particularly noteworthy - none quite as impressive as the brown and black bespoke top coat Fred Nieddu of Taillour crafted for Robb Report editor-in-chief Paul Croughton. One thing’s for sure it had us all purring (and pining) to have one made up to cloke ourselves within for next year’s winter edition. Camel coats and cardigans made a welcome reappearance too. The trend even seemed to re-energise stalwart street snapper Scott Schuman.
Beanies
The humble beanie hat kept folically challenged guests' heads protected from the bitingly cold Pitti chills. The brighter coloured the better it seemed.
Western headwear
Running the same parallel western universe as the aforementioned Navajo and patchworks, there was plentiful cowboy-inspired head regalia on show. Heaven forbid there was even a tethered horse outside the fortezza waiting for its Florentine John Wayne to ride off into the sunset.
The humble beanie hat kept folically challenged guests' heads protected from the bitingly cold Pitti chills. The brighter coloured the better it seemed.
Western headwear
Running the same parallel western universe as the aforementioned Navajo and patchworks, there was plentiful cowboy-inspired head regalia on show. Heaven forbid there was even a tethered horse outside the fortezza waiting for its Florentine John Wayne to ride off into the sunset.
