JOURNAL
Blend of two worlds
Words & photography: Lee Osborne @sartorialee
Lee Osborne speaks to Nathan Hellard about fusing his esteemed French linen with HFW’s most iconic cloth
How did the collaboration come about?
I met Iain, Bob and Geoff at Pitti and in the course of time we mooted the idea of potentially working together. A series of off the cuff conversations which became reality, masterminded by, in Nathan’s words, “the infamous textile matchmaker”, Virgil Viret from Lafayette Saltiel Drapiers. My initial plan, says Hellard, “was to create a high-twist linen, but it proved unconvincing”. Iain Milligan, HFW’s managing Director then proposed creating a Fresco-Linen blend: “What we wanted to achieve was a low maintenance linen - it’s obviously a cloth that creases - there is no escaping that even with Fresco in the mix. It’s a vegetable fibre so a crease-free linen doesn’t exist. I wanted something more traditional and HFW was the perfect fit in that respect - it’s a blend of two worlds.”
Tell us a bit more about what you wanted to achieve with this unique cloth?
It’s a 50/50 blend of Fresco and linen - a 2-ply wool with a 2-ply linen which is a great way to add more texture to Fresco - when you cross the two different yarns it achieves two different shades, adding some nice grain.

Is it the first time Fresco and linen have been spun together?
No, HFW had tried something before. Iain in the past wanted to make a really light Fresco but it didn’t work that well so it didn’t go any further. I wanted the fabric to have more body and be more rustic so we used the Fresco 2-ply yarn to give more body.
Tell us about the cloth?
It’s a Fresco warp and French linen weft, bringing together the best of both Companies.
  • The cloth is woven and finished in Huddersfield, England.
Tell us about the benefits achieved by adding linen to Fresco…
There are 3 main benefits:
  • It’s low maintenance, it will crease less than pure linen and has a beautiful recovery.
  • It still has the texture of linen, retaining the nice slubs characteristic of the yarn.
  • You have the added depth and colour variation from using a two colour 2-ply yarn.
Which colours are available?
There are 8 colours in understated neutral/earth tones and a range of dark blues, reflecting our versatile approach. With the help of my fabric designer friend Martin, each cloth is named after places in Yorkshire and the English Lake District, drawing inspiration from the unique landscape in the North West of England. The colour palette is all about subtle contrasts and nuances - a collection of timeless shades which, in time, we will add too (in particular dark browns and greens).

When is the official release date?
“We have already had some pre-sales”, says Hellard, but the official launch, which will be part of Hellard’s Carnet de Voyage collection, which won’t happen until early March 2025, with launch events planned in both London and Paris.

330gms/lm
Wool and linen, woven in England

#maisonhellard #linenfresco #huddersfieldfineworsteds

For more information, please contact info@maisonhellard.com